Showing posts with label food writing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label food writing. Show all posts

Saturday, March 3, 2012

Book Review: Om jag var din hemmafru av Lotta Lundgren (Swedish cookbook, English review)

Fantastic Swedish cookbook: Om jag var din hemmafru av Lotta Lundgren

Om jag var din hemmafru by Lotta Lundgren, is an amazing cookbook (in Swedish only, for now), by Lotta Lundgren, a former advertising copywriter who changed careers to become a food writer and chef.  I got this book as a present, and I love it, not only for the amazing gorgeous photos (which Lotta as the model!), but also for the food writing.  The recipes are fine, but the best is the intros to each dish and the irreverent humor that is everywhere, in every line. 

It is hard to explain this in English, but she has a fantastic tongue-in-cheek, silly, intelligent, and contemporary humoristic take on life, food, love, and eating in her Swedish text.  It is just GORGEOUS from both a visual, intellectual, and foodie viewpoint.  I have so far cooked two things out of the book, but I have read the whole cookbook, from front to back page.  And that is usually not the case!  Often Swedes are too serious, and this book just loosens everything up!

In many ways this is an anti-book book, a book that suggests that you don't take life, food, recipes and work so seriously - that you just let go and enjoy it.  Many of the recipes do not give exact measurements.  Lotta, THANK YOU! 

USA needs this cookbook, but I am not sure most people here would get it, considering the backwards, horrible trends among some groups here (anti-love, anti-good food, anti-birth control, anti-personal freedom - just thinking about the recent republican presidential campaign makes me shudder of disgust).  At least we Swedes have this book to be happy about. 

Sweden publishes the most cook books per year per capita, which is pretty amazing.  But Swedes care about food, good food, organic and local products, and they also travel near and far so they are used to many different cuisines.

(If you can read Swedish, here is a great review of the book from Kulturdelen)

Fantastic Swedish cookbook: Om jag var din hemmafru av Lotta Lundgren

[Large photos by Vilseskogen on Flickr, Creative Commons; book cover by Norstedts]

Saturday, July 24, 2010

Taxonomic inaccuracies in the food world

Most times I don't care if people can tell the difference between a cow and a deer, a bee or a wasp, or a crow and a turkey vulture, but when authors and publications that are very particular on being accurate in one area don't even bother to check the ID on other things they write or talk about, it really bothers me.  Such as food magazines that proudly distinguishes with fancy words between the top and bottom of a pig, different varieties of kale ('grönkål'), and have different words for types of Italian vinegars depending on the region they come from.  If you are that picky, and pride yourself on it, as a publisher you should check everything and ask the experts when you enter new zoological and botanical territory.

Here are two recent examples:
On Bon Appetit's website there is a blogpost about what to do when you get a fly in your soup at a restaurant.  Good post, interesting comments, however...  the accompanying photo is of a soup bowl with a... guess.... a CIKADA (they are also called locust).  A giant cikada, obviously dead and spread out with its wings in a very unnatural position to resemble a monster fly. I have to ask my family dipterist (that is fly guy) if there even are that big flies in the real world.  But still, why not just say it is a cikada in the soup? The photo is from istockphoto and the photographer said it wasn't a fly, but that wasn't clarified by Bon Appetit, who bought the right to use the photo.  It is like saying you are looking at a pork chop when in fact you are seeing a bison or reindeer steak. 

Second example was a recent article in New York Times about the world-famous restaurant Noma and its chef René Redzepi, who cooks with local (= Aal of the Nordic countries in fact), sometimes wild, ingredients such as wild beach plants, reindeer, wild roses, and puffin eggs. With the article is a photographic slide show of some of the dishes and ingredients, gorgeous photos, but with some big errors in the descriptions.  The small fuzzy flower buds of the 'oxel' tree (whitebeam in English) was renamed "axel" tree by NY Times.  Rose hips ('nypon') turned into rose petals. And a photo of the local pine cone is described as a thuja cone (photo on right, different thuja species look a bit different, but never like a pine).  These things matters, not only do they miseducate but in the case of the thuja, you do not want people to go out there and chewing on these toxic plants. Especially not if you are pregnant, since the toxin can cause miscarriages. I am sure the Danish chef knows what he is doing, but the journalists weren't getting it right, and yes, NY Times have been notified, but not fixed the errors yet.

It is impossible to know personally all the correct names of the 1.7+ million species in the world, but I think we should at least try to get it right as far as we can.  Or maybe I am too picky.

(Thuja cone photo by Luis Fernández García, Creative Commons license, on Wikimedia)

Saturday, March 13, 2010

Book review: The United States of Arugula

The book The United States of Arugula: The Sun-dried, cold-pressed, dark-roasted, extra virgin story of the American Food Revolution by David Kamp, is not a book that is easily categorized despite its title, which is longer than the ingredient list to many recipes. It is a documentary story, supposedly very factual, about the chefs, TV kitchen celebrities, cookbook writers, and food journalists of the last ca 100 years in the US. I say supposedly factual, but as we know, the truth is sometimes a very fleeting and subjective thing.

David Kamp writes about James Beard, Julia Child, Alice Waters, MFK Fisher, and all the other famous food people, and spice it up with stories, rumors, and a-friend-of-a-friend-said... He clearly admires many of them, but sometimes he goes for the sensational. Do we really care what somebody did lewdly to a farm animal as a little boy, and who is crazy and who slept with everybody in their kitchen? That part reads more like a gossip magazine and really has nothing to do with the actual food history of America.

The book does describe the food revolution very well , from the frozen TV dinners in the 1950s and 60s to our current fascination and desire for local, pesticide-free, and naturally grown and produced food. I enjoyed the book, but it is a bit too long and could have used some editing to cut out some slow and repetitive parts. Parts of it are based on interviews and the book therefore includes many quotes. He describes the origin of the supermarkets, the celebrity chef phenomenom, free-range meat, microwaves, and the loss of the corner groceries and farmer's markets (now on their way back).

You learn a lot in this book - that the first people to sell Chemex glass coffeemakers (we have one in our kitchen), were the two guys who later started Starbucks. That before Dean and DeLuca opened a little food store in New York City, you could not get balsamic vinegar and sundried tomatoes here. This is how trends and tastes started. Now we take it for granted, but I remember the 1970s in Sweden - there simply was no international food in the supermarkets except for spaghetti. Food has changed so fast, and with the increased international travel and immigration/emigration in the last 20-30 years we are now much more global.

I recently was asked about typical Swedish food, and after thinking about it for a second I said: boiled cod, white sauce with eggs, and boiled peeled potatoes, all flavored with salt and white pepper, maybe if you are lucky also some peas and parsley ('kokt torsk i äggsås' in Swedish). That is what we were served in school sometimes when I grew up, but I don't think many people in Sweden eat that anymore. Then I added meatballs ('köttbullar'), with gravy and lingonberries ('lingonsylt'), more potatoes, meat stews ('kalops', for example), potatoes, meat loaf ('köttfarslimpa'), cabbage, and onions. Really, quite boring even if good, but this is not Swedish food today. I have heard that the two most popular dinners in Sweden are now spaghetti and meat- or tomato sauce (like this!) and pizza, which is similar to common family dinners here in the US. It is the Italian take-over! :) (Those of you that live in Sweden can correct me if you like).

Arugula is ruccola in Swedish (Eruca sativa in Latin), and has become the symbol of elitist food snobbery in the US, at least the Republican Party thinks so. I love another species also called arugula, the Italian 'Rustica' kind (the species is Diplotaxis tenuifolia). We have Rustica growing in our garden as a perennial, self-seeding weed. It is so good, especially with beets. After reading this book I am grateful we have all the food options we have - dinner tonight will be locally raised herb-marinated poissons (young chickens), served maybe with green chili and cilantro polenta produced in Pennsylvania and fresh artichokes from California. Mmmm...

Tuesday, October 27, 2009

More about Gourmet magazine, which is no more...

If you go to the Gourmet website, you can read this:
"Please be advised that Gourmet magazine will cease publication after the November issue.
Subscribers can look forward to receiving Bon Appetit magazine for the remainder of their subscription. The Gourmet.com website will remain available during a transitional period, and access to Gourmet recipes will also remain available via sister site Epicurious.com and the Epi iPhone application. We regret any inconvenience, and look forward to your continued readership. For questions about your Gourmet magazine subscription, please follow this link to subscription services. The Oct. 23-25 Gourmet Institute events will not take place. Additional information is available at gourmetinstitute.com. If you purchased the GOURMET TODAY cookbook and would like to take advantage of the offer on the back flap, click here for more information. "

Note, all of this above is written in CAPS. Dear Conde Nast, DO NOT WRITE IN ALL CAPS. IT IS REALLY ANNOYING. That is basic Net etiquette. "Regret any inconvenience?" Yeah, how about: I ordered this magazine and it didn't show up so I am slightly inconvenienced? We got a letter recently asking us to subscribe to Bon Appetit , and we sent it back with large letters on it -" We want Gourmet instead!". For you Swedes, this is like if "Bullen's hot dogs" are no longer available, or some other classic like Abba's herring or King Oscar's sardines, and instead they are offering you some cheap substitute. I so dislike when everything is steered by money and not by the right thing to do... Why keep golf magazines and wedding specials and get rid of this magazine that is addressing food, food policy, and food history? Your priorities are wrong, Conde Nast (that is the publisher).

I was in the bookstore today and they advertised the new, probably a fantastic, Gourmet cookbook as 'includes one year subscription to Gourmet'. Yeah, right. And I am a dalmatian. If you click on the link from the cookbook to your subscription online you get this message: "Sorry, we could not find the page you were looking for. Many pages have been changed due to our relocation from Epicurious.com, and the URL you were looking for likely changed or may no longer be available." Nice. Please Conde Nast, you are pissing off a lot of people... about 100 00 subscribers I would think, plus the hundreds that are buying your cookbook.

At least the recipes are still online. I think I want this for dinner soon. The last issue of Gourmet was great, and we are saving it, of course. This looks good too...

Monday, October 5, 2009

No more Gourmets

At least, no more Gourmet magazines, a monthly magazine that started in 1941 and won't be published after November due to the bad economy. It isn't my favorite magazine, but it is good, and it is sad to see it go. It was the first food magazine I subscribed to in the US. They had great articles about food around the world, wonderful recipes, and mouth-watering photos of heaping plates. The editor is my favorite food writer Ruth Reichl. I find it pretty amazing that they decide to stop a magazine that is printed in nearly 1 million copies each month. Can't they stop Golf Illustrated, Wall Street Journal, or Southern Living instead? Bye, bye, Gourmet. This makes me so sad. Why can't we get rid of Hummers, stupid thousand-dollar shoes and corrupt politicians and businessmen, and keep Gourmet instead? And Conde Nast, the publisher, is my new 'evil company'; see below.

"A source close to the now-shuttered Gourmet magazine reports that employees have been given just 48 hours to clean out their desks and go. Some of the staffers had been there 30 years and more. " (link)

More links for RIP Gourmet articles: here, here, here, here, here. I also admit that sometimes I found it annoying, but I still loved it. Of course, we still have Fine Cooking and Saveur as magazines, but it is not the same thing.

Sunday, May 24, 2009

Absinthe and coincidence

A while ago I got a very interesting book from BOS and Dad in Sweden (thanks!), Fru Blomqvists matbok ('Mrs. Blomqvist's food book', not available in translation), and I recently picked it up and started to read it. It starts with the entry Absint ('absinthe'), and this is the first sentence in the whole book:

Den 17 maj år 1896 uppsöker August Strindberg sin vanliga plats på terrassen till Brasserie des Lilas bakom marskalken Neys staty for att inta sin klockan sex-absint.

(appr. "On the 17th of May year 1896, August Strindberg is visiting his usual place on the terrace of Brasserie des Lilas behind marshal Ney's statue to drink his six PM absinthe. ")

In his bok Inferno, Strindberg describes how sad he gets when his usual table and seat is taken on May 17, so he has to visit another cafe. Strindberg is one of the big classic authors in Sweden, on par with Balzac and Tolstoj, but in Swedish. He isn't one of my favorite authors, but someone you hear about a lot in school.

If you have followed the blog last week you know that May 17 is my birthday (happenstance# 1). The night before my birthday our good friend BV brought over some newly released absinte (called Lucid, must be a sarcastic name and do check out the eyes on the bottle) for us to taste (happenstance #2). I have read a lot about absinthe and its herbal origin Artemisia absinthium, but I had never tasted it before. Absinthe has been illegal for decades in the US, but recently has been allowed to be sold again. You are supposed to drink it by holding a holy (with holes) spoon with a sugar cube over a glass - pour on the absinthe (62% alcohol), and then water so the sugar dissolves. We didn't have spoon or sugar cube, so we mixed it with water only. It turns milky, just like ouzo. I have had Swedish akvavit made with Artemisia before (malörtsbrännvin), but this is quite different. Not at all as bitter, more like anise or licorice or fennel, three plant species that have nothing to do with Artemisia. I really liked it, but I question its authenticity - how close is this really to the original sipped in Paris in 1896? With sugar I think it would have turned into a really girly drink, and very easy to drink too much of. Thanks BV for the taste, it was very interesting!

Sunday, February 8, 2009

Chopping sticks and tender loins in China

Shark's Fin and Sichuan Pepper- a sweet-sour memoir of eating in China by Fuchsia Dunlop.
This is one of the best books I have read about China, in my whole life. It is really a memoir about the author's escapades in China's kitchens and restaurants, but it is also so much more. The author, Fuchsia Dunlop, starts with her first visit to China, where she after a few months end up as the first foreigner in the chef's school in Chengdu, Sichuan province. Her fascination with the Chinese foods are truly contagious. Duck, tendon, dumplings, spicy peppers, soy sauce, all is described in exquisite prose and vivid words. It is very personal, but also very easy to relate to. Fuchsia is not afraid of showing her opinions about politics and environmental disasters, and as the author of a 'revolutionary cookbook' and someone that has eaten many endangered species through her time in China, she battles with her guilty conscience as well as local politicians and bureaucracy.

The book is a fantastic introduction to the Chinese culture. Aside from the food, and a few recipes too, she tackles everything from traveling undercover to areas closed to foreigners, the disdain for Western food as well as the love for it by the Chinese people (apple pie is strange, McDonald's is OK), the influence of history and famine on food culture, and the economic boom in the last 15 years and its environmental and food consequences.

Her love of China and Chinese food seeps from the pages, and it makes me want to visit some of the more remote parts. I also want to find a restaurant close to us that make real Chinese food, not the Americanized hodge-podge most serve.

Some excerpts:
"Learning another cuisine is like learning a language. In the beginning, you know nothing about its most basic rules of grammar. You experience it as a flood of words, or dishes, without system or structure."

"By all accounts, Mao remained a Hunanese peasant in his eating habits to the end of his life. He was addicted to spicy food, and famously told a Soviet envoy that you couldn't be a revolutionary if you didn't eat chilies." (yeah - vodka belt meets fiery chilies!)

"The Chinese do seem to eat everything, one must admit. But in a sense they are just a distorting mirror, magnifying the voracity of the entire human race."

Swedish Chinese food is even worse, at least it was in the 90s. It was the same everywhere: 4 kinds of sauces (brown, white, sweet & sour, spicy), 4 kinds of protein (chicken, beef, pork, shrimp), and a variety of vegetables (mushrooms, pineapple, green beens, broccoli, tomatoes, baby corn, bamboo shoot). The menus was just different combinations on this, like Beef with Tomatoes (very unchinese), Chicken with Green beans, Shrimp with broccoli - all with the nondescript brown sauce. I liked this kind of food, but it probably isn't very Chinese. And the constantly available lunch offering "Fyra Små Rätter" (=Four small dishes), which is never served in the US. Four small dishes for lunch, like this one at Restaurang Peking in Trollbäcken: Deepfried jumbo shrimp with sweet and sour sauce (Friterade stora räkor med sötsur sås), deepfried pork with sweet and sour sauce ( Friterad fläskfilé med sötsur sås), chicken with currysauce and vegetables (Kycklingfilé med currysås och grönsaker), and beef with bamboo shoots (Biff med bambuskott). 89 Swedish crowns, I think that is about $12 now. Wow, this restaurant also serves Shark Fin soup, Hajfensoppa, and the menu certainly has more items than a regular Chinese restaurant in Sweden in the 1990s.

When I moved to the US and saw my first menu in the take out restaurant I had no idea what to order. There certainly wasn't any Beef with Tomatoes. Egg Foo Young - what is that? Moo Shu Pork? Not even the Chicken with Green Beans tasted like the dishes in Stockholm. I liked the Americanized Chinese food better, not so sweet and more spicy. Garlic Eggplant, yum. Duck rolls! And now I think I am ready for the real thing, as long as there is no tripe (intestines), tendons, or endangered species in it. I could eat a snake, that doesn't bother me, but I wouldn't eat brain or kidneys. I'll just stick with muscle meat I think.

Now I am going to let a friend borrow my copy of this book; she is from China and I would love to know what she thinks about it. It is a marvelous book, read it.

Monday, December 8, 2008

Book reviews: A different type of travel

This book, Heat by Bill Buford, got quite a lot of press when it came out, probably because it is written by a former editor at The New Yorker. The book is long and with small text, so it lasts for a long while, too long in my opinion. This is the true story of Bill quitting his job to go and work in superfamous Mario Batali's restaurant kitchen (at Babbo, superfamous place in New York), where he describes a million details and happenings in minuscule tidbits. After a year he is allowed to make some pasta, the most important station in the kitchen, and after that he decides to go to Italy and learn the real thing - pasta and butchering in Tuscany. The book is full of great portraits of people, and descriptions of scenery and interiors. But it is too long, too long-winded, too scattered, and several times I could not get the timeline right. A lot is written about Batali of course, not always in a friendly way, but not mean either. More observant, standing outside it all. The book detours into story dead ends (or maybe just distractions) of why there is egg in pasta, if the French cooking all comes from Tuscany, why not to become a chef, how to slaughter a pig in New York City (including how to get it up the elevator), and the good and bad of being a cattle and winegrower in Tuscany. There is not one recipe in the whole book, but you might want to read it if you want to know a recipe for restaurant kitchen disasters. It was an OK read, but maybe unfortunately nothing I want to read again. For great food writing with a real feel in fewer words, pick up Ruth Reichl, MFK Fisher, or Julia Child's biograph My Life in France. We have a good expression in Swedish that I thought of a couple of times when I read this book " full av ordbajseri och svammel", but I don't know how to translate it.

And then there is a completely different biographical book. A book full of life, of love of people and places, a book that makes you think, believe and trust in the common good and people's goodness again. The book is Tales of a Female Nomad, and is written by Rita Golden Gelman. It is the story of her life when she in upper middle age is faced with a divorce and realize that she wants to learn Spanish and visit foreign countries. She takes off on a whim and end up in Mexico for a few months and lives with local families, learning their way of living and their languages. Rita is a children's book writer, and by writing a few books a year and her royalties she has a small income, but enough to live abroad for months at the time. She lives in Central America, Bali, New Zealand, Canada... The book is a description of her travels, but more so a description of her fears, loves, adventures, and life - in a very realistic and colorful way. I strongly, strongly recommend this book. I loved it - read most of it on the plane to Africa (17 hour flight... ). Rita is still a nomad, she moves around and you can read more about her on her blog. After you have read this book, it is like you found a new friend.

Wednesday, November 19, 2008

Stamp of the Day: Italian Food

I have been reading the book HEAT by Bill Buford, about his time working in famous chef Mario Batali's Italian restaurant in New York. The book is a bit uneven, hard to follow, but funny, and probably a rather honest look into a restaurant kitchen. Mario is going through the garbage to see what the chef's are throwing out and gets upset when he finds celery leaves, "the best part of the celery!". ) (Personally I can't stand raw celery, but when cooked it is OK. It is something genetic.) There are also descriptions of restaurants in Italy, especially small family-style places with handmade, fresh pasta, and amazing sauces. On these stamps you have some of the best Italy has - Roma tomatoes, saffron from crocus, prosciutto ham, parmigiano cheese (a lot better than the Swedish 'Rivosto' I grew up with, which can be characterized as plastic-tasting dried bland cheese powder in a plastic jar or later a thin plastic bag), chile peppers, olive oil, wine, and of course pasta. In the book Bill declares his amazement that something as good as pasta can come from just flour and egg. It is amazing indeed, and thanks to all italians for inventing it! Guess what we are having for dinner tonight?

Thursday, September 18, 2008

Quote of the day: Hot dogs

"The noblest of all dogs is the hot dog: It feeds the hand that bites it."

Laurence J. Peter

Tuesday, May 27, 2008

English food

Another quote from my little book:

The English have the undeserved reputation of ruining all the vegetables they can lay their hands on. - Frank Oliver (an Englishman)

I still remember the first time I was in London, around 1991, and the two memorable meals I had there. The first was greasy fries and some beef pie at a pub for lunch - all I remember is the grease and the lack of anything vegetable-like except the fried potatoes. The second was an evening when I for the first time in my life went to an Indian restaurant and I had chicken tandoori, and it was great. I didn't understand anything the waiters said, and thought it was strange that you ordered bread and side dishes separately. But since then I have loved Indian food.

Saturday, May 10, 2008

Book reviews: Two books about crazy mothers

Ruth Reichl: Tender at the Bone, with the subtitle Growing Up at the Table, is the memoir of the current Gourmet editor and former New York Times critic Ruth Reichl. Her stories about her mom, The Queen of Mold, are hilarious and sad and include a variety of occasions when her mom served moldy or rotten food which made people very sick. not until later in life did she realize that her mom was manic-depressive. She was sent to a French school in Canada on a whim by her mom and had to stay for three years, just to learn better French. But through the whole book is the theme of food, from baking with grandma, making sure guests are not eating her mom's food, to secret pastry runs from the school in Montreal. It is a very honest book and a great read and not only of you are foodie. I especially liked the first part about her earlier years and her character descriptions of family, friends, and people like the quilt-maker in Manhattan, the commune members in Berkeley, and the wine importer she traveled with to France. She makes her co-workers in life human without being mean. Read this book first, and then Comfort me with Apples, the sequel, which I already blogged about.

A little example from Tender at the Bone:
"Don't eat that," I ordered my best friend Jeanie as her spoon dipped into one of Mom's more creative lunch dishes. My mother believed in celebrating every holiday: in honor of St. Patrick she was serving bananas with green sour creme.
"I don't mind the color," said Jeanie, a trusting soul whose own mother wouldn't dream of offering you an all-orange Halloween extravaganza complete with milk dyed the color of orange juice. Ida served the sort of perfect lunches I longed for: neat squares of creme cheese and jelly on white bread, bologna sandwiches, Chef Boyardee straight from the can.
"It's not just food coloring," I said. "The sour creme was green to begin with; the carton's been in the refrigerator for months."
Jeanie quickly put her spoon down and when Mom went into the other room to answer the phone we ducked into the bathroom and flushed our lunches down the toilet.


The next book I read recently is also a memoir, The Glass Castle by Jeanette Walls. It is the true story of four children growing up with two totally irresponsible parents, one alcoholic innovator (her father) and a self-centered artist mother. They rarely live in a place for more than a few months, are often taught at home, an suffer through extreme poverty which her parents mainly see as a great adventure. It is a very vivid story, and reading it makes you feel very sad, and glad that the children after all survived and made it all by themselves. Also this book is honest, she is not making any excuses for her parents, but she also gives them credit for learning to have a positive attitude despite hardship, to be able to be awed at nature's beauty, and to be able to appreciate art. But the main theme through the book is despair and disappointment with your parents. It is really a great book, even if it sounds like a sad story.

Saturday, February 16, 2008

Book Review: The Nasty Bits by Anthony Bourdain

The subtitle of this book called The Nasty Bits is "Collected varietal cuts, usable trim, scraps, and bones", and this is really what this is, both in literary and culinary meanings. Anthony Bourdain became famous for his book "Kitchen Confidential", where he described the inner workings of the New York restaurant life. After that success he has continued writing books, magazine articles, and made TV shows.

This book is a compilation of a diverse array of texts that either never been published before, or have been in magazines as separate articles. It is fun reading, but it really is a mess - a little bit here and a little bit there and no real coherent theme. But fun. A lot is about travel and eating strange things, some is about his friends and enemies (?) in the restaurant business, and a lot is simply just thoughts and ponderings about food, culture, and cooking. He can get away with this since we know him from his earlier writings and he is a genuine chef, but if this had been a first-time writer I would not have liked the scattered impression of the book. It really are scraps that fell off the writing table while other things were being produced. But it is great fun to read!

Some small excerpts:
"Here is the downside to having written a book about eating adventurously around the world: People want to feed you stuff. And not just any stuff. They want to see you nibbling on the nether regions of unusual beasties. They want to photograph you chawing on small woodland creatures previously believed to be indigestible. They want to dazzle you with turtle parts you didn't know existed, chicken feet, hundred-year-old eggs, snake snacks, fried bugs... and they want to watch you eat every little bit. "

"The scorpions sat proudly atop golden brown squares, fried into aggressive attack position, tails raised threateningly."

He also gives some kicks to Woody Harrolson that only eats raw food, the local vs. global food movements, Americans that doesn't try new things, and TV chefs that aren't real chefs ( = have never run a restaurant). I love that he writes like he talks, is provocative and honest, and one reviewer noted "it practically explodes off the page". In conclusion, a great read.

Monday, December 24, 2007

What can happen when two married people like the same things...

They, unaware of each other, buy the same present for each other. First PP opened his present from me, and then I opened mine from him, and it was the same thing! A wonderful thing - a cookbook from Cafe Pasqual's in Santa Fe, New Mexico, where we had a fantastic dinner on our honey moon. The title is Cooking with Cafe Pasqual's. But we only really need one cookbook :)
I was so sure he didn't even know it existed, and he thought he was so smart and had found the perfect present for me...

If you ever come to Santa Fe, this is the place to go to. Or come to our house and we will cook some for you.

Monday, December 17, 2007

Book review: The Last Chinese Chef by Nicole Mones

This is a fantastic book. This is GREAT book. This is a book that made me change my view of China and Chinese food. This is probably one of the best books I have read in 3 years. The author Nicole Mones has written three novels that all center about Chinese and American culture shock, modern and history, contemporary love stories about art, food, and love.

The three books are unrelated, but related in that most of the stories take place in today's China. The first book I read by her was A cup of Light - also one of the best books I have read in 3 years. I can't remember books longer than 3 years, so that is my cutoff date :), (well not really true... I do remember some books forever). A cup of light is about ancient Chinese porcelain and ceramics and antiquity dealers. Her third book I am reading now, and it is called Lost in translation, and is about the search for the hominid skeleton called Peking Man.

But back to this book, The Last Chinese Chef. A woman has lost her husband in a car accident a year earlier and finds out that there is a woman in China that says her husband is the father of her child. So she has to travel to China and check it out. She is also a food writer for a magazine (think Gourmet), so the editor tells her to go and interview a new, young American-Chinese chef that cooks Chinese food the old-fashioned "imperial" way in Beijing. He has just been invited to be one of ten finalists for a competition to design and cook a banquet, and the two winners will form the Olympic team. You only get to have two helpers, and he has two old uncles that help him out. His father was a famous chef before he fled China with his family and settled in California - and in his new life he stopped cooking. I won't tell you what happens, you will have to read the book.

What makes this book such a great read is the descriptions of people, places, and details - from the food to the language to architectural details. The American author has lived in China for 18 years, and you can tell. It is like the book is a documentary, that is how true it feels.

I didn't know that food in China is such a social event - people never eat alone, and food is always shared on large plates in the middle of the table, never plated on separate, individual plates. And presentation is really important, and texture more than taste sometimes. Crunchy on the outside, soft on the inside. And 'fake' food that surprise you, such as a whole chicken skin stuffed with tofu and mushrooms so it looks like a chicken, but is not. Nothing is like the Chinese food you get at restaurants in America or Sweden! This sounds so much better!

Now I, 1) want to go to a REAL Chinese restaurant and order a sampling menu of traditional Chinese food, and 2) learn how to cook some of these dishes. Maybe not the chicken skin one, or boiled chicken feet (served in Princeton, in fact), but there are others that sound so good. Chinese cooking is not just soy sauce, fried shrimp and sweet and sour sauce with white rice... it is spareribs with ginger and scallion wrapped in lotus-leaves and crispy duck with aromatic herbs...

Other people like this too:

"The most thorough explanation of Chinese food that I've ever read in the English language." -RUTH REICHL (see my earlier book review)

On Nicole Mones website you can also get advice on how to find good real Chinese cooking in America. And she explains the paradox about Chinese restaurants in the US and their boring menus:

"Chefs have told me “American taste” means Chinese-style dishes prepared with a limited range of pre-mixed sauces, usually no more than 5-7 per restaurant. This is why a Chinese–American restaurant can have 150 menu items but only a handful of different flavors."

"Wherever you live, there may be better Chinese food than you think. More than one immigrant chef has told me he would love to cook and serve Chinese-style dishes, but he fears his American diners won't accept food prepared according to real Chinese tastes." (link)

Sunday, December 2, 2007

Twinkies - the good, the bad, and the ugly

Twinkies, a typical American snack food, that you can buy in any supermarket or gas station, has been deconstructed in a new book with the suitable title "Twinkies, deconstructed" by Steve Ettlinger.
"In this fascinating exploration into the curious world of packaged foods, Twinkie, Deconstructed takes us from phosphate mines in Idaho to corn fields in Iowa, from gypsum mines in Oklahoma to oil fields in China, to demystify some of America’s most common processed food ingredients—where they come from, how they are made, how they are used—and why. Beginning at the source (hint: they’re often more closely linked to rocks and petroleum than any of the four food groups), Ettlinger reveals how each Twinkie ingredient goes through the process of being crushed, baked, fermented, refined, and/or reacted into a totally unrecognizable goo or powder with a strange name—all for the sake of creating a simple snack cake." book website

The rumor is that Twinkies never go bad, they can be stored on a shelf for years and never mold or never taste bad. They are like little rolled up soft cakes with white filling. So what is really in them? And how do they really taste? I had never had one in my whole life, but after readiing part of this book, I got a package at the store to do a real scientific test in our family.
500 million Twinkies are made and sold each year, so this is an extremely popular store item.

The list of ingredients is incredibly long, and the complete list is available on Wikipedia. The main ingredient is flour, followed by sugar, corn syrup, water, and high fructose corn syrup. But it also has strange things like sodium stearol lactylate, polysorbate 60, yellow 5, and sorbic acid in it. This is not like homebaked 'bullar'.



We opened up the package. There they were! Little moist, spongy rolls inside see-through plastic packages. One for each of us and a few extra. Let's take a bite!

I wrote down all the comments of course, but can't find them now five months later, but the conclusion was very different for different family members.


Guess who this is? This person loved Twinkies!
Another person said they tasted weird, the first bite was OK and then it was all chemicals. Personally, I could not live on these, and I won't buy them again. I don't understand why people like them at all.





All that was left in the end was wrappers.

On the official Twinkie website, they have a recipe for Twinkie Sushi. Hmmm....check out the pictures. Our sushi master here at home (LA), thinks those sushi look gross. I agree 100%. More real and happy food for the people instead of this.

Wednesday, November 21, 2007

Book review: Three food books worth reading

It does appear that a lot of my reading has a general theme. Food. After these three books, and the previous three, I am still not done. I have more to read and more I have read and should write about. But after my mean reviews last night, I thought you might want to hear about some good books. Maybe it is because food writing is so personal, so autobiographic, so either real or unreal, that these books felt true. They are all about personal experiences, but very different ones. Also, all these three books have really interesting subtitles. Here we go:

Kitchen Confidential by Anthony Bourdain, "Adventures in the Culinary Underbelly"
"They were pounding veal in the kitchen when I arrived; the whole crew, on every available horizontal surface, banging on veal cutlets for scallopine with heavy steel mallets. The testosterone level was high, very high. These guys were the A-team, and they knew it. Everybody knew it. The floor staff, the managers, even Mario seemed to walk on eggs around them, as if one of them would suddenly lunge through the bars of their cage and take a jagged bite. I alone was too stupid to see how over my head I was among these magnificent cooking machines. "
This book is by famous New York chef Anthony Bourdain, who in frank, rough words describes his often hilarious or desperate experiences as first chef-in-training, then major chef. It covers cooking schools, summer jobs making Italian food on the shore, garden parties and disasters, how to run and not run a restaurant, what to eat and not to eat in a restaurant (never fish on a Monday, never mussels, assume your bread has been on someone else's table, etc.). It is a great read, and you learn more about the food world than about food itself. Good advice too - if the restaurant can't even keep their bathrooms clean, imagine how their kitchen looks like.

Two for the Road by Jane and Michael Stern, "Our Love Affair with American Food"
Jane and Michael Stern is the couple behind Roadfood, which started as a book and now is a great website, where you can find local and better alternatives to McDonald's and Taco Bell when you are traveling. They seek out small family-owned places that still serve homemade regional specialties like barbecued pork, breakfast pancakes, and lobster rolls. This book is also autobiographic, explaining how it all started when they went on their first road trip to investigate food maybe 30 years ago. Their writing is delicious and funny, and they often write about tiny details such as the exact price of a hot dog, the curtain's color and the smell from the oven at a small diner, and how many cats the owner has. If you want to know more about American food and not read about fancy restaurants, this is the book for you. It has recipes too!
"We came to appreciate fairgoers' magnitude the first time we visited the Iowa State Fair. It is held in the big city of Des Moines, but attracts millions of people from small towns all over the state. Our attire was jeans and T-shirts, which was perfectly appropriate. The best outfit for fairgoing is a good set of overalls, preferably made by OshKosh B'Gosh, Big Smith, or Carhartt. These are good because they do not cinch your waist and therefore offer no impediment to serious eating."

Animal, Vegetable, Miracle by Barbara Kingsolver, "A year of Food Life"(website with more information and recipes)
Barbara Kingsolver is a fantastic American writer (Prodigal Summer), who always has cared about the environment and social issues like poverty and cultural heritage. This book, written together with her husband and 19-year old daughter, is a true story about how they move back into an ancestral farmhouse in Virginia's Appalachian mountains (USA), and decided to try to live a year on what they can grow themselves and buy locally. They made the rule that each person could make one exception and buy something from far away, like black pepper and coffee, which is never produced in Virginia. They start a large vegetable garden, have hens and turkeys, and buy meat and milk from local farmers. It is a lot of hard work but also an eye-opener how good real fresh food is when you eat it in season. A lot of canning and preserving is taking place in the kitchen, as is the making of homemade mozzarella accompanied by turkey slaughter outside.
Interspersed with the tale of each month's gardening and food issues are recipes and thoughts about the environmental impact of our food choices. This book inspired me, not in the sense that I want to become a farmer, but that small choices really can make a big impact in how and what we eat and how food is produced. It really matters if you buy a box of eggs from the store from caged hens with cut-off beaks, or if you get local eggs from hens that freely roam around and can eat grass and bugs while flapping their wings. I want to eat HAPPY FOOD. This is a great book, and just in time for the current food debate here in America about mass-production in food factories versus local, small-scale production. I am tired of buying organic peas from China, apples from New Zealand, and chicken in the store that taste like nothing and comes from hen houses with 30 000 hens in one room and no space to move an inch. Right now I am reading another book called "The ethics of what we eat", but more about that in a later blog post. What we eat definitely matter, not only to ourselves, but to the world as a whole.
"That's how springtime found us: grinning from ear to ear, hauling out our seedlings, just as the rest of our neighborhood began to haul out the plastic lawn flingmos and little Dutch children kissing and those spooky plywood silhouettes of cowboys leaning against trees. Lawn decoration is high art in the South, make no mistake about it."

Tuesday, November 20, 2007

Book review: Three food books you don't have to bother with

eat pray love by Elisabeth Gilbert
This is an interesting book, and the only reason it is in this category is that I don't think it is for everyone. It is a autobiography, telling the true story of a woman who leaves an unhappy marriage and lives 4 months in Italy to eat and promote decadence, 4 months in India to learn how to get closer to God at a Hindu center called Ashram, and then 4 months in Bali to find herself with a native healer. She also finds love again in Bali. The writing is excellent, a real delight, and she is especially good at writing about humorous situations as well as her own anxiety and impatience. I loved that. However, it is kind of a strange book, because the only person that feels real in the book is herself, none of the other characters. They are more like shadows. But her descriptions of eating pasta, pizza, and gelato in Italy wants me to go there NOW. So if you don't mind some God praying stuff, read it, otherwise read only part one and then go on to another book.

The year of eating dangerously by Tom Parker Bowles
This is the book I only read to chapter 2, then gave up on. If you think the author's last name is familiar, it is because 1) he is a famous British food writer, and 2) he is the son of Camilla Parker Bowles, now married to Prince Charles of the British royal family. No, Charles is not in the book, but his mom is, mentioned as someone that can cook, hates spicy food, and like good ingredients. The author writes a lot, far too much. It is like he thinks every little word and thought is of interest, but there really isn't any depth to anything. The first chapter is about baby eels, but he ends the chapter without eating one molecule from the eel, and the second chapter is about chilis in New Mexico, but you don't really learn anything about chili or find out what he thinks about them. It is just one long diatribe about being to a Fiery Food Festival eating too hot sauces, seeing people puke and say the f-word (lots of that in the book), and then just want to go home. Boring. Superficial. I gave up. If I writer can't even excite me about hot chilies and Santa Fe, the book is lost. I really tried to like it, but I couldn't.

Remembrance of things Paris, sixty years of writing from Gourmet, edited by Ruth Reichl
If you have been to Paris sometime in the 20s to 50s, maybe this book is fun for you. I wasn't even born then. The best essay in the whole book is the one by Ruth Reichl, about trying on a black dress! It is outstanding, but the rest is about as boring as Marcel Proust. But I read nearly all of it while I was stuck on an airplane. If you want to read about French food there are a lot better books. Too much is snotty, snobbish, and only the insiders would know what you mean. More Ruth Reichl, less old dusty stuff.
On a scale from one to 100, this book is a 5 and Comfort me with Apples by Ruth Reichl is a 99.

Tuesday, October 30, 2007

Book review: Comfort me with Apples by Ruth Reichl

"The wine was strong. The garlic was pungent... Before long the entire room as giddy with garlic euphoria. Wrapped up in fumes of garlic, we ate galantines of pigeon, duck, and quail with garlic mosaics. ...Platters of spring lamb were brought out, surrounded by three garlic-infused purees. We washed the meat down with oceans of deep, dark Zinfandel. "[in California at a garlic extravaganza]

"What is that?" I asked. "How dong", he said. "It is always cheap, and it is always hot. It is made of miscellaneous meat; it could be anything - snake, muskrat, baby lion. The recipe calls for lots of chilies, pepper, and spice to mask the flavor of the meat. " [ in Thailand tasting local food]

This little memoir called Comfort me with Apples is written by Ruth Reichl, the current editor of fancy-pantsy food magazine Gourmet (yes, we subscribe), and former restaurant critic for New York Times, where she dressed up in different wigs and costumes so the chefs shouldn't recognize her (as you can read in another great book called Garlic and Sapphires).

This book is how it all got started, how she lived in a house shared with friends in Berkeley, California, and one day was offered to start reviewing restaurants without really having any practice at it. It is several stories in one book, both a true description of the building of a career and its ups and downs and uncertainties and happiness and the love for food and the people that make and eat it. But also a description of the dissolution of her marriage at the same time. She talks honestly, funnily, and sometimes very emotionally about finding love, losing it, and in the meantime, eating good, comforting food, and less good food.

She travels to Paris, to China, and to Thailand to write about the food and the people, and her book manages to create living people. You see living dining tables heaped with wonderfully smells of garlic, lamb, fruits, French cheeses, wine, and fresh-picked vegetables in front of your eyes. I loved this book; it sustained me on a long airplane trip where they didn't even serve peanuts anymore. (And yes, there are recipes in it too!)